Mountain lodge near Barcelona: Vall de Núria

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It was not the first time we visited Vall the Núria, but the first time we spent the night at this mountain lodge near Barcelona! Even though during Spring the many landscapes in Vall de Núria are breathtaking, we really wanted to experience that vibe of staying there on a winter day, something close to those cozy cabins in the middle of the snowy mountains. And guess what: we LOVED it! 

So we decided to share the experience in case you are looking for a different weekend. And the best part: you don’t need to drive to get there, you can take the train from Barcelona. But let’s start the article the Americans in Barcelona way: exploring first the story behind this historical and magical place.

The legend of Vall de Núria

Vall de Núria is a mountain valley located in the Pyrenees, specifically in Queralbs (Girona Region), at an altitude of 1.964 meters above sea level. But why is this mountain valley called Vall de Núria? It is said that Saint Gil arrived in this valley in the 7th century and he carefully carved an image of the Núria virgin (Verge de Núria). But he had to hide it in the valley and flee from the Arabs that were persecuting him. So he hidded the figure he carved, along with a cross, a bell and a pot.

vall de nuria
Vall de Núria Hotel and sanctuary.

Centuries later, in 1072 a pilgrim from Dalmacia named Amadeu came to this place guided by a divine revelation. Once there he built a small hermitage that we know today as “Ermita de Sant Gil”. After Amadeu left, in 1079 a figure of Mare de Déu de Núria was found at this chapel by shepherds with the help of their cattle, along with a cross, a bell and a pot. This hermitage is next to the Santuari of Mare de Déu de Núria.

Vall de Núria and the Ermita de Sant Gil on the right

Vall de Núria throughout the years

Today we travel to Vall de Núria and all we see is this beautiful mountain lodge near Barcelona, which makes it one of the perfect destinations for a couple of days of city disconnection. But do you know what this place has been for through the 7th century until today? Before becoming a tourist destination (and a beautiful mountain lodge near Barcelona), Vall de Núria began as a parish church for the shepherds to pray and throughout the years it also has served as a hospital, hostel, pilgrimage place and even a prison.

The sanctuary of Mare de Déu de la Vall de Núria

So needless to say, a visit to the sanctuary is mandatory when in Vall the Núria. But what about the cross, the bell and the pot that Saint Gil hid? They are now part of the ritual when entering the sanctuary: on the left you will find a little room with a pot, it is l’Olla de Núria, where you have to introduce your head and at the same time stretch the rope to ring the bell. It is said to be a ritual linked to fertility.

Things to do in Vall de Núria

1. Ski in Vall de Núria

This one is pretty obvious… Vall de Núria is also a ski resort that we included among the ski resorts near Barcelona. The truth is that it is not the biggest one or the most majestic, but it definitely is one of the most familiar and also the most magical after knowing the story of this place.

2. Take the cable car to Pic de l’Àliga

This is another fun activity to do when in Vall de Núria, hopping on the cable car called “Telefèric Coma del Clot” which is right next to the Cremallera train station. In a couple of minutes you will arrive at Pic de l’Àliga where you will enjoy beautiful views from the heights (hopefully on a clear skies day).

3. Visit the sanctuary

As we described it in the lines above, visiting the sanctuary is also among the must-do things when in Vall de Núria. Specially when you already know the legend behind it!

4. Hike in Vall de Núria

There are many hikes you can do in this area. As we always say, check the weather conditions first and the routes, and if necessary book them with a professional in the area. You can get more detailed information on the options right in the entrance of this mountain lodge, the information point for visitors. We highly recommend you to ask them first. Here are some of the options:

A hike around the lake

This one just takes approximately 15 minutes, and it consists of a hike surrounding the lake. But you might just want to take more than 15 minutes to enjoy the beautiful views of the lake, the little cabin on one side and the Vall de Núria sanctuary in the background. And if you love this kind of hikes don’t miss the article about lakes near Barcelona.

Camí Vell de Queralbs

This is one of the most famous mountain trails in the area (if not the most famous) it is a path that leads from Núria to Queralbs and vice versa It is a 3h hike, and as said before, checking the weather conditions first is mandatory since in the winter there might be ice sheets along the way that can be dangerous. Needless to say, it is a beautiful hike (specially during spring).

The Puigmal peak

This one is for the bravest. If you love hiking mountains, you probably fancy a hike to Puigmal mountain. It takes around 5 hours, check the weather conditions first.

Where to sleep in Vall de Núria

We decided to spend the night at the Hotel Vall de Núria definitely a beautiful mountain lodge near Barcelona. That was part of our main objective when we planned to go there: be able to see how it was snowing through the windows of the hotel room. And guess what: challenge achieved. These were the beautiful views from our hotel room:

Vall de Núria on a foggy day

But there is another option: alberg Pic de l’Àliga, which is more of a hostel with shared rooms. But compare prices between the hotel and the hostel, because the price might not be that different depending on the dates you choose to go. From our experience at the Hotel Vall de Núria, we went on weekdays and we definitely recommend it.

How to arrive to Vall de Núria

It is quite easy to get there by public transport. You just have to take the train at the renfe station of Plaça Catalunya or Sants to Ribes de Freser, and approximately in 2 hours you will get there. Once in Ribes de Freser, you have to take the Cremallera train (there is no other way to get to Vall de Núria). You can buy the Cremallera ticket directly in the station or in advance on the website.

And in case you go by car, you have to drive to Ribes de Freser, to park there and then going to the Vall de Núria train station (right next to the renfe station) and hop on the Cremallera train with destination Vall de Núria.

Have you ever been to Vall de Núria? Do you know any other mountain lodge near Barcelona worth a visit? Let us know!

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