Not the healthiest, but the Catalan brunch “Esmorzar de forquilla” is probably the most genuine breakfast in Catalonia in terms of culture. Some of its ‘must’: allioli (traditional Catalan sauce), pà amb tomàquet (bread with tomato), porró (a traditional wine-drinking vessel) and a generous serving of Catalan cuisine.

What is this Catalan brunch “Esmorzar de forquilla”?

Probably the most traditional Catalan breakfast, but to be honest, not the “standard breakfast” eaten by Catalan people daily, these days. Apparently it might look similar to the typical breakfast in the United States, since both might have meat, eggs, fries… and even some esmorzars de forquilla also include bacon. But when doing a more comprehensive research on their origins, the differences between them are more than obvious.   

For instance, there is something that makes the esmorzar de forquilla unique: only specific food from the homeland is allowed in this meal. They are basically products included in the traditional Catalan cuisine, which usually are affordable and popular (and mostly not vegan). For instance: botifarra amb seques, cap i pota, peus de porc, fricandó…

And what about the drinks which go along with this generous breakfast? You won’t drink coffee but beer or wine instead, using the traditional porró (if you are brave enough!). 

The traditional meal of farmers and merchants

This traditional breakfast is not a modern gastronomy invention, but a tradition with centuries of history. This meal was actually the most important meal of the day for many farmers and merchants who headed up to the city on farmers market days. Before starting their activity, they gained strength eating a generous and traditional meal that ended up being called “esmorzar de forquilla”.

Actually, esmorzar de forquilla is directly linked to writer Josep Pla, who is said to be the creator of the name. He came up with the name “esmorzar de forquilla” to refer to the generous and traditional meals served in Fonda Europa (Granollers), where also farmers and merchants had this kind of breakfast on farmers market day, before heading to the market.

Josep Pla said: “Not all breakfasts prepared in Catalonia are poor”, referring to the standard coffee+toast breakfast. He preferred to have the “esmorzar de forquilla” instead, and ended up setting a tradition that is still so common among Catalans.

When do people have this Catalan brunch, esmorzar de forquilla nowadays?

It looks like the essence of this ritual is preserved: after doing an intense activity, but also  before any other activity which might require physical effort. For instance, this “esmorzar de forquilla” is pretty common:

• After an intense morning of cycling with friends (or even when cycling or motorcycling with an amateur team). When it is midday, they stop by at these “bars de carretera” to recover by eating these kinds of generous breakfasts.
• Before or after an intense morning-hike (or just a hike ;-)).

But the truth is that you don’t really have an excuse to eat this Catalan brunch called esmorzar de forquilla. There is only one requirement: to be really hungry (esmorzar de forquilla has been overtime the cure to many terrible hangovers :-P)

Where to eat the Catalan brunch, esmorzar de forquilla, in Barcelona?

Our recommendation is to head to a masia with a rural environment to make the most of the experience. But you can also have esmorzar de forquilla in Barcelona. These are some of the most popular and traditional places:

• La Pubilla: it represents the kind of places that we like to go have lunch to explore the culture. Not the fanciest, but one of the most genuine with delicious traditional food. It is really well known for the authentic esmorzars de forquilla that they have been serving for years.
• Cal Boter: Same as Pubilla. They are specially popular for its esmorzars de forquilla in Barcelona, and you will get to discover part of a culture through its traditional food. And we really like that.
• La Boqueria: Bar Pinotxo. This is an iconic bar. So if you plan to explore the most famous farmers market in Barcelona, you can also have “esmorzar de forquilla” or even lunch at this historical place with almost a century of history.

Bon profit! :-)